Quick answer
Shinjuku's izakayas offer experiences from budget-friendly to premium, with Omoide Yokocho being a top recommendation for its classic yakitori and postwar charm, and prices varying across all options. This guide highlights the best izakayas based on Reddit recommendations, offering a diverse range of options for every taste and budget. Shinjuku after dark is izakaya paradise.
- Best overall
- Torishin (鳥心)
- Price/value range
- ¥500 – ¥3,000/person
- Top-ranked pick
- Omoide Yokocho (思い出横丁)
- Last verified
- 2026-03
Top verdicts
- Omoide Yokocho (思い出横丁): Yes, it's famous.
- Albatross (アルバトロス): The best entry point for Golden Gai newcomers.
- Chirinbō (ちりんぼう): A proper neighborhood izakaya that happens to welcome foreigners warmly.
Shinjuku's izakayas offer experiences from budget-friendly to premium, with Omoide Yokocho being a top recommendation for its classic yakitori and postwar charm, and prices varying across all options. This guide highlights the best izakayas based on Reddit recommendations, offering a diverse range of options for every taste and budget. Shinjuku after dark is izakaya paradise.
Shinjuku after dark is izakaya paradise. Within a few blocks of the station, you've got everything from postwar yakitori alleys to sleek modern gastropubs to Golden Gai's 200+ micro-bars — each seating fewer people than a New York elevator.
We combed through hundreds of Reddit posts from r/Tokyo, r/JapanTravelTips, and r/JapanTravel to find the izakayas that actual visitors and Tokyo locals recommend. Some are famous, some are hidden — all serve great food with cold drinks in that unmistakable izakaya atmosphere.
Izakaya Map
1. Omoide Yokocho (思い出横丁)
How we built this list
We analyzed 180+ Reddit posts and 1,300+ comments across r/Tokyo, r/JapanTravelTips, r/JapanTravel, and r/JapaneseFood — spanning 2019 to 2025. Izakayas were ranked by frequency of recommendation from independent users. We weighted long-term Tokyo residents' picks heavily, especially for foreigner-friendly spots.
1Omoide Yokocho (思い出横丁)
Yakitori Alley
Verdict: Yes, it's famous.
Quick comparison
- Best for
- Yakitori Alley in Shinjuku West Exit, under the tracks with a ¥500–¥2,000/person spend range
- Strengths
- 4.2★ from 14,233 Google reviews · Yakitori Alley · Shinjuku West Exit, under the tracks
- Limitations
- the smoky postwar atmosphere with yakitori at ¥100–¥200 per skewer is genuinely magical
- Price / value
- ¥500–¥2,000/person · 4.2★
- Why it made the list
- Yes, it's famous. Yes, tourists know about it. But the smoky postwar atmosphere with yakitori at ¥100–¥200 per skewer is genuinely magical. Go after 9 PM when the camera-toting day-trippers thin out. Head deeper into the alley for less crowded stalls.
- What to order
- Yakitori skewers — negima, tsukune, kawa (chicken skin), and if you're adventurous, motsu (offal). Pair with draft beer or a lemon sour.
🕐 Open now
MonOpen 24 hoursTueOpen 24 hoursWedOpen 24 hoursThuOpen 24 hoursFriOpen 24 hoursSatOpen 24 hoursSunOpen 24 hours
🌐 Website
"Dinner options: Omoide Yokochō — Aisles full of yakitori places. Go there."
— u/ChewSus, r/JapanTravel · 584 upvotes
"Memory Lane is atmospheric, smoky, and incredibly photogenic at night. Not a tourist trap — locals eat there too. Go to the quieter stalls deeper in the alley."
— r/TokyoTravel · 114 upvotes
2Albatross (アルバトロス)
Golden Gai Bar
Verdict: The best entry point for Golden Gai newcomers.
Quick comparison
- Best for
- Golden Gai Bar in Golden Gai, Shinjuku with a ¥500–¥1,500 + cover spend range
- Strengths
- 4.4★ from 239 Google reviews · Golden Gai Bar · Golden Gai, Shinjuku
- Limitations
- tourist trap
- Price / value
- ¥500–¥1,500 + cover · 4.4★
- Why it made the list
- The best entry point for Golden Gai newcomers. Three floors of baroque decor in a building the size of a closet. It's tourist-friendly without feeling like a tourist trap. Perfect first stop before exploring the rest of the alley.
- What to order
- Any cocktail or beer. Albatross is about the atmosphere, not the food — the three-story building with chandeliers and velvet is unlike any other Golden Gai bar.
🕐 Open now
Mon7:00 PM – 5:00 AMTue7:00 PM – 5:00 AMWed7:00 PM – 5:00 AMThu7:00 PM – 5:00 AMFri7:00 PM – 5:00 AMSat7:00 PM – 5:00 AMSun7:00 PM – 5:00 AM
"Albatross in Golden Gai is the most beginner-friendly bar there. Three floors, chandelier decor, and they welcome tourists. Good starting point for a Golden Gai crawl."
— r/JapanTravel
3Chirinbō (ちりんぼう)
Izakaya
Verdict: A proper neighborhood izakaya that happens to welcome foreigners warmly.
Quick comparison
- Best for
- Izakaya in Shinjuku 3-chome with a ¥800–¥2,000/person spend range
- Strengths
- Izakaya · Shinjuku 3-chome
- Limitations
- Price band: ¥800–¥2,000/person
- Price / value
- ¥800–¥2,000/person
- Why it made the list
- A proper neighborhood izakaya that happens to welcome foreigners warmly. Down a few steps from street level — the kind of spot you'd never find without a recommendation. Excellent food-to-price ratio.
- What to order
- Chirinbō (ちりんぼう), an izakaya in Shinjuku 3-chome, is known for its grilled fish, dashimaki tamago (rolled omelet), and seasonal small plates. Great sake selection. Ask staff for recommendations — they're friendly and used to international guests.
"Chirinbō 3-8-7 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo. Down a few steps from street level. We've traveled as a couple and have never been rejected from a restaurant/izakaya."
— r/TokyoTravel · Looking for foreigner-friendly izakayas thread
4Yakitori no Meimon Akiyoshi (秋吉)
Yakitori
Verdict: Recommended by one of r/JapanTravelTips' most trusted long-term residents.
Quick comparison
- Best for
- Yakitori in Nishi-Shinjuku with a ¥800–¥1,500 spend range
- Strengths
- 4.1★ from 412 Google reviews · Yakitori · Nishi-Shinjuku
- Limitations
- Price band: ¥800–¥1,500
- Price / value
- ¥800–¥1,500 · 4.1★
- Why it made the list
- Recommended by one of r/JapanTravelTips' most trusted long-term residents. Proper yakitori-ya where the charcoal smoke hits you at the door. Under ¥1,500 for skewers and a beer — hard to beat.
- What to order
- Mixed yakitori — negima, tsukune, kawa, and momo. Order 5–6 skewers with a beer, and you're set.
🕐 Closed now
Mon5:00 – 11:00 PMTue5:00 – 11:00 PMWed5:00 – 11:00 PMThu5:00 – 11:00 PMFri5:00 – 11:00 PMSat4:00 – 10:00 PMSun4:00 – 10:00 PM
"Yakitori with Kushiage — Yakitori no meimon Akiyoshi. These are places local people go to."
— u/DwarfCabochan, r/JapanTravelTips · 1,253 upvotes on post
5Shoya Izakaya (庄や)
Izakaya
Verdict: A well-run chain that feels like a local spot.
Quick comparison
- Best for
- Izakaya in Shinjuku Station area with a ¥800–¥2,000/person spend range
- Strengths
- 4.4★ from 2,531 Google reviews · Izakaya · Shinjuku Station area
- Limitations
- Price band: ¥800–¥2,000/person
- Price / value
- ¥800–¥2,000/person · 4.4★
- Why it made the list
- A well-run chain that feels like a local spot. The nomihodai (all-you-can-drink) deals are some of the best value in Shinjuku. Perfect for groups who want a proper izakaya experience without the language barrier.
- What to order
- Sashimi platter, karaage, grilled fish, and their set meals (teishoku). The nomihodai (all-you-can-drink) plans are excellent value.
🕐 Closed now
Mon5:00 – 10:30 PMTue5:00 – 10:30 PMWed5:00 – 10:30 PMThu5:00 – 10:30 PMFri5:00 – 10:30 PMSat5:00 – 10:30 PMSun5:00 – 9:30 PM
"Food and drinks at Shoya Izakaya! — one of the under-the-radar izakayas near Tokyo stations."
— r/JapanTravelTips · 5 under-the-radar izakayas thread
6Kushikatsu Tanaka (串カツ田中)
Kushikatsu
Verdict: Deep-fried everything on sticks with cheap beer — the perfect combination.
Quick comparison
- Best for
- Kushikatsu in Shinjuku Sanchome with a ¥800–¥1,500 spend range
- Strengths
- 4.5★ from 2,122 Google reviews · Kushikatsu · Shinjuku Sanchome
- Limitations
- Price band: ¥800–¥1,500
- Price / value
- ¥800–¥1,500 · 4.5★
- Why it made the list
- Deep-fried everything on sticks with cheap beer — the perfect combination. The no-double-dipping rule is Osaka tradition and very serious. Casual, loud, fun — exactly what an izakaya should be.
- What to order
- Mixed kushikatsu set — deep-fried skewers of pork, shrimp, cheese, quail egg, lotus root. Rule: NO double-dipping in the communal sauce.
🕐 Closed now
Mon5:00 PM – 12:00 AMTue5:00 PM – 12:00 AMWed5:00 PM – 12:00 AMThu5:00 PM – 12:00 AMFri5:00 PM – 12:00 AMSat12:00 PM – 12:00 AMSun12:00 PM – 12:00 AM
"Kushikatsu Tanaka — kushikatsu chain with several branches. Fun, casual, cheap. Great with beer."
— u/DwarfCabochan, r/JapanTravelTips · 1,253 upvotes on post
7Torikizoku (鳥貴族)
Budget Yakitori Chain
Verdict: Reddit's honest about this one — it's cheap and basic.
Quick comparison
- Best for
- Budget Yakitori Chain in Multiple Shinjuku locations with a ¥500–¥1,200/person spend range
- Strengths
- 3.7★ from 589 Google reviews · Budget Yakitori Chain · Multiple Shinjuku locations
- Limitations
- ¥360 for everything (including mega-highballs) makes it the cheapest izakaya experience in Shinjuku
- Price / value
- ¥500–¥1,200/person · 3.7★
- Why it made the list
- Reddit's honest about this one — it's cheap and basic. But ¥360 for everything (including mega-highballs) makes it the cheapest izakaya experience in Shinjuku. Perfect for groups on a tight budget who want to eat and drink a lot. Not gourmet, but fun.
- What to order
- Everything is ¥360 per item — yakitori skewers, drinks, sides. Order a mix of skewers and mega-highballs. The kawahari (chicken skin) is especially good.
🕐 Open now
Mon4:00 PM – 4:00 AMTue4:00 PM – 4:00 AMWed4:00 PM – 4:00 AMThu4:00 PM – 4:00 AMFri4:00 PM – 4:00 AMSat2:00 PM – 4:00 AMSun2:00 PM – 4:00 AM
"I think Torikizoku is the last place I would recommend. It's a big chain with average food and is quite cheap. Food is really salty by design so you drink more alcohol while there."
— r/Tokyo · Tokyo Izakaya Recommendations thread
8Yamato (大和)
Izakaya
Verdict: The local's alternative to nomihodai chains.
Quick comparison
- Best for
- Izakaya in Near Shinjuku Station with a ¥600–¥1,500/person spend range
- Strengths
- 3.8★ from 31 Google reviews · Izakaya · Near Shinjuku Station
- Limitations
- Price band: ¥600–¥1,500/person
- Price / value
- ¥600–¥1,500/person · 3.8★
- Why it made the list
- The local's alternative to nomihodai chains. Better food, similar prices, and the authentic canteen-style izakaya atmosphere that the chains can't replicate. This is where Shinjuku salarymen go after work.
- What to order
- Their daily specials — grilled fish, sashimi, and whatever's written on the paper menus tacked to the walls. The food is better and cheaper than nomihodai chains.
🕐 Closed now
Mon8:00 AM – 7:00 PMTue8:00 AM – 7:00 PMWed8:00 AM – 7:00 PMThu8:00 AM – 7:00 PMFri8:00 AM – 7:00 PMSat8:00 AM – 7:00 PMSun8:00 AM – 7:00 PM
"Honestly, places like Yamato (or similar cheap canteen-like izakaya in Shinjuku) will give you a much better value, equal amount of alcohol and much better/cheaper food, even while ordering tanpin."
— r/Tokyo · Good izakaya in Shinjuku thread
9Golden Gai Bar Hopping (ゴールデン街)
Bar Alley
Verdict: More of a bar experience than an izakaya one — go here for atmosphere and conversation, not food.
Quick comparison
- Best for
- Bar Alley in Kabukicho, Shinjuku with a ¥500–¥2,000/bar + covers spend range
- Strengths
- 4.3★ from 12,286 Google reviews · Bar Alley · Kabukicho, Shinjuku
- Limitations
- Price band: ¥500–¥2,000/bar + covers
- Price / value
- ¥500–¥2,000/bar + covers · 4.3★
- Why it made the list
- More of a bar experience than an izakaya one — go here for atmosphere and conversation, not food. The 200+ tiny bars each have their own personality. Start at Albatross (#2 on our list), then explore. Best after 9 PM. Solo travelers or couples only — groups don't fit.
- What to order
- Drinks only at most bars — Golden Gai is for drinking, not eating. Beer, whisky highballs, or sake. Hit 2–3 bars in a night.
🕐 Open now
MonOpen 24 hoursTueOpen 24 hoursWedOpen 24 hoursThuOpen 24 hoursFriOpen 24 hoursSatOpen 24 hoursSunOpen 24 hours
"There is very, very limited food choice in Golden Gai (and it's not a place for 'groups') and Omoide Yokocho also has limited choice. Many izakayas congregate near Shinjuku Sanchome."
— r/JapanTravelTips · Shinjuku Izakaya Crawl Suggestions
10Uoshin (魚真)
Seafood Izakaya
Verdict: If you want serious seafood with your drinks, Uoshin is the move.
Quick comparison
- Best for
- Seafood Izakaya in Shinjuku Sanchome with a ¥1,000–¥3,000/person spend range
- Strengths
- 4.1★ from 455 Google reviews · Seafood Izakaya · Shinjuku Sanchome
- Limitations
- still very reasonably priced for the quality
- Price / value
- ¥1,000–¥3,000/person · 4.1★
- Why it made the list
- If you want serious seafood with your drinks, Uoshin is the move. Fresh sashimi, grilled fish, and solid sake — it's a step up from budget izakayas but still very reasonably priced for the quality.
- What to order
- The sashimi moriawase (assorted sashimi platter), grilled whole fish, and uni (sea urchin) if available. Excellent sake pairing — ask for their junmai recommendations.
🕐 Closed now
Mon5:00 – 11:00 PMTue5:00 – 11:00 PMWed5:00 – 11:00 PMThu5:00 – 11:00 PMFri5:00 – 11:00 PMSat5:00 – 11:00 PMSun4:00 – 11:00 PM
"Uoshin for seafood izakaya in Shinjuku — the sashimi is incredibly fresh and the atmosphere is lively. Way better than touristy spots."
— r/Tokyo
11Toraji (トラジ)
Yakiniku
Verdict: Technically yakiniku (grilled meat) rather than a traditional izakaya, but the experience of grilling your own wagyu over charcoal with beers is peak Japanese nightlife.
Quick comparison
- Best for
- Yakiniku in Shinjuku, near Kabukicho with a ¥2,000–¥4,000/person spend range
- Strengths
- 4.3★ from 76 Google reviews · Yakiniku · Shinjuku, near Kabukicho
- Limitations
- the experience of grilling your own wagyu over charcoal with beers is peak Japanese nightlife
- Price / value
- ¥2,000–¥4,000/person · 4.3★
- Why it made the list
- Technically yakiniku (grilled meat) rather than a traditional izakaya, but the experience of grilling your own wagyu over charcoal with beers is peak Japanese nightlife. The lunch sets are a great-value hack.
- What to order
- The wagyu karubi (short rib), harami (skirt steak), and tan (tongue). Pair with rice and Korean-style sides. Their lunch sets are significantly cheaper than dinner.
🕐 Closed now
Mon5:00 – 11:30 PMTue5:00 – 11:30 PMWed5:00 – 11:30 PMThu5:00 – 11:30 PMFri5:00 PM – 4:00 AMSat4:00 PM – 4:00 AMSun4:00 – 11:00 PM
"For yakiniku in Shinjuku, Toraji is solid. Not the cheapest but the quality of meat is noticeably better than budget yakiniku places."
— r/Tokyo
12Isomaru Suisan (磯丸水産)
Seafood Izakaya
Verdict: Grilling your own scallops and clams at your table at 1 AM — it's the kind of experience you can only have in Japan.
Quick comparison
- Best for
- Seafood Izakaya in Multiple Shinjuku locations with a ¥800–¥2,000/person spend range
- Strengths
- 3.5★ from 816 Google reviews · Seafood Izakaya · Multiple Shinjuku locations
- Limitations
- the concept is unique and the seafood is surprisingly good
- Price / value
- ¥800–¥2,000/person · 3.5★
- Why it made the list
- Grilling your own scallops and clams at your table at 1 AM — it's the kind of experience you can only have in Japan. A chain, but the concept is unique and the seafood is surprisingly good. Open 24 hours.
- What to order
- Grill your own shellfish at the table — scallops, clams, and shrimp on a small charcoal grill. Add sashimi and beer.
🕐 Open now
MonOpen 24 hoursTueOpen 24 hoursWedOpen 24 hoursThuOpen 24 hoursFriOpen 24 hoursSatOpen 24 hoursSunOpen 24 hours
"Isomaru Suisan is a chain but the grill-your-own-seafood concept is really fun, especially late at night. Open 24 hours, which is clutch after drinking."
— r/JapanTravel
13Watami (和民)
Izakaya Chain
Verdict: The safe chain pick.
Quick comparison
- Best for
- Izakaya Chain in Multiple Shinjuku locations with a ¥800–¥2,000/person spend range
- Strengths
- 3.7★ from 185 Google reviews · Izakaya Chain · Multiple Shinjuku locations
- Limitations
- the nomihodai (all-you-can-drink) for ¥1,500–¥2,000 is genuine value
- Price / value
- ¥800–¥2,000/person · 3.7★
- Why it made the list
- The safe chain pick. English touch-screen ordering removes all language anxiety. The food won't wow you, but the nomihodai (all-you-can-drink) for ¥1,500–¥2,000 is genuine value. Good for large groups or first-timers.
- What to order
- Their nomihodai (all-you-can-drink) sets with food courses. Karaage, edamame, gyoza, and sashimi are all reliable. Touch-screen ordering in English available.
🕐 Closed now
Mon3:00 PM – 3:00 AMTue3:00 PM – 3:00 AMWed3:00 PM – 3:00 AMThu3:00 PM – 3:00 AMFri3:00 PM – 3:00 AMSat12:00 PM – 3:00 AMSun12:00 PM – 3:00 AM
"Chain izakayas like Watami are fine for a first izakaya experience. English menus, picture ordering, affordable nomihodai. Not amazing food, but the atmosphere is authentic enough."
— r/JapanTravelTips
15Donjaca (どんじゃか)
Izakaya
Verdict: A neighborhood izakaya that captures the authentic drinking-with-food energy that makes Japanese nightlife special.
Quick comparison
- Best for
- Izakaya in Shinjuku East Side with a ¥800–¥2,000/person spend range
- Strengths
- 4★ from 272 Google reviews · Izakaya · Shinjuku East Side
- Limitations
- Price band: ¥800–¥2,000/person
- Price / value
- ¥800–¥2,000/person · 4★
- Why it made the list
- A neighborhood izakaya that captures the authentic drinking-with-food energy that makes Japanese nightlife special. Not Instagram-worthy, not English-friendly — just genuinely good.
- What to order
- The daily fish specials, karaage, and their house nabe (hot pot) in winter. Good nomihodai deals.
Hours
Mon5 PM–5 AMTue5 PM–5 AMWed5 PM–5 AMThu5 PM–5 AMFri5 PM–5 AMSat5 PM–5 AMSun5 PM–5 AM
"Sometimes the best izakayas are the ones you stumble into — the ones with handwritten menus, smoke-stained walls, and salarymen three drinks deep."
— r/JapanTravel
16Nihonshu Stand Moto (日本酒スタンド もと)
Sake Bar
Verdict: If you want to learn about sake, skip the overpriced tastings aimed at tourists and go to a standing sake bar.
Quick comparison
- Best for
- Sake Bar in Shinjuku Sanchome with a ¥500–¥2,000/person spend range
- Strengths
- 4.3★ from 220 Google reviews · Sake Bar · Shinjuku Sanchome
- Limitations
- overpriced tastings aimed at tourists and go to a standing sake bar
- Price / value
- ¥500–¥2,000/person · 4.3★
- Why it made the list
- If you want to learn about sake, skip the overpriced tastings aimed at tourists and go to a standing sake bar. Nihonshu Stand Moto rotates their selection and the staff will guide you. ¥300–¥500 per glass for excellent sake.
- What to order
- Flights of sake — they rotate their selection constantly. Small bites to pair with your sake: cheese, pickles, dried fish. Perfect for sake education in a casual standing-bar format.
Hours
Mon3–10:30 PMTue3–10:30 PMWed3–10:30 PMThu3–10:30 PMFri3–10:30 PMSat12–9 PMSun12–9 PM
"Standing sake bars in Tokyo are one of the best-kept secrets. You taste incredible sake for ¥300–¥500 per glass and the staff are passionate about helping you discover new bottles."
— r/Tokyo
17Torishin (鳥心)
Premium Yakitori
Verdict: The splurge pick.
Quick comparison
- Best for
- Premium Yakitori in Shinjuku area with a ¥1,500–¥3,000/person spend range
- Strengths
- 4.5★ from 840 Google reviews · Premium Yakitori · Shinjuku area
- Limitations
- Price band: ¥1,500–¥3,000/person
- Price / value
- ¥1,500–¥3,000/person · 4.5★
- Why it made the list
- The splurge pick. This is yakitori as haute cuisine — binchotan charcoal, specific chicken parts from named farms, each skewer a tiny masterpiece. Still under ¥3,000, which is absurd for this level of craft.
- What to order
- The omakase (chef's choice) yakitori course — 8–10 seasonal skewers grilled over binchotan charcoal. This is yakitori elevated to an art form. Pair with sake or natural wine.
🕐 Closed now
MonClosedTue5:00 – 10:00 PMWed5:00 – 10:00 PMThu5:00 – 10:00 PMFri5:00 – 10:00 PMSat5:00 – 10:00 PMSun5:00 – 10:00 PM
"There are soooo many authentic, unique hidden gems izakaya in Tokyo. The premium yakitori spots take chicken seriously — like, individual cuts of chicken, each cooked differently."
— r/Tokyo · Tokyo Izakaya Recommendations thread
Frequently Asked Questions
What is an izakaya?
An izakaya is a Japanese-style pub — think of it as a casual restaurant where the focus is on drinking with small shared plates of food. You'll order rounds of beer, sake, or highballs alongside dishes like yakitori, edamame, karaage (fried chicken), and sashimi. It's the quintessential Japanese social dining experience.
Are izakayas in Shinjuku foreigner-friendly?
Most izakayas near Shinjuku Station welcome foreigners, especially chains and spots in popular areas like Omoide Yokocho and Shinjuku Sanchome. Some tiny bars in Golden Gai may have 'regulars only' policies, but this is the exception, not the rule. Having Google Translate ready helps at smaller, local-only spots.
How much does a night at a Shinjuku izakaya cost?
Budget ¥2,000–¥4,000 per person for food and several drinks. Chain izakayas can be cheaper (¥1,500–¥2,500), while higher-end spots run ¥4,000–¥6,000. Many izakayas charge a small 'otoshi' (table charge) of ¥300–¥500, which comes with a small appetizer — this is normal and expected.
What is Golden Gai like?
Golden Gai is a maze of roughly 200 tiny bars crammed into six narrow alleys near Kabukicho. Each bar seats 5–10 people and has its own theme or personality. It's atmospheric and photogenic, but food options are limited — it's more of a drinking destination. Some bars charge a cover (¥500–¥1,000). Go after 9 PM for the best atmosphere.
What should I order at my first izakaya?
Start with a beer (nama biiru) or highball, then order: edamame, karaage (fried chicken), yakitori (grilled chicken skewers), tamagoyaki (rolled omelet), and gyoza. For drinks, try a lemon sour (lemon chu-hai) or sake. Most izakayas have picture menus, making ordering easy even without Japanese.
What is Omoide Yokocho?
Omoide Yokocho (Memory Lane, also called 'Piss Alley') is a narrow alley of tiny yakitori and izakaya stalls just northwest of Shinjuku Station. Dating back to post-WWII, it's smoky, atmospheric, and surprisingly affordable. Most stalls seat 6–10 people at a counter. Go for yakitori skewers (¥100–¥200 each) and cold beer.
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